March 23, 2015

Deep South - Day 8

The morning started early today because we had to catch a 9:00 a.m. ferry to Ship Island.  Our condo, located in the Sea Breeze Condominium complex, was in beautiful Biloxi, Mississippi - just
Capt. Pete
north of Beauvoir on Beach Boulevard.  (Beauvoir is Jefferson Davis' retirement home and - get this - Presidential library.)  The ferry leaves from Gulfport, which is the next town over from Biloxi.  The ferry, Capt. Pete, has been making the trip back and forth to the island since the 1950s when the original Captain Pete Skrmetta and his wife started the business.  In the spring they complete one trip in the morning from 9:00 to 2:30 p.m.  On the weekends and in the summer, they run two trips – one in the morning and one beginning at noon and departing at 5:00 p.m.

Smile Sam

It was a beautiful day to visit the island – but unfortunately there was no breeze.  I say unfortunately because without a breeze, the gnats had nothing to else to occupy their time but dive bombing the ears, eyes, nose and exposed parts of the humans around them.  Consider one exchange I overheard on the beach:
“These gnats are killing me!” yelled an elderly gentleman wading in the Gulf surf.  A young mother of two responded helpfully, “Would you like some bug spray?”
“I have some,” he replied.  “I think they like it.”   We could empathize.

Isaac and the Louisiana State Bird
The 50-minute boat ride through the Mississippi Sound was awesome because of one thing – dolphins.  The captain pointed them out over the intercom when he would spot them and we found ourselves running (ok....walking fast) from side to side of the boat hoping to catch a glimpse.  At one point, he noted that there were two dolphins frolicking in the front.  We quickly ran to the bow of the clipper.  There they were goofing around and waiting for a good sized crowd to gather. 
When enough of us were in the front watching, they dove directly under the boat, one on each side of the prow and rode the water, belly up for a good 5-6 minutes.  I
Walking in the Gulf of Mexico
found myself standing directly above the one on the port side.  The dolphin was literally four feet below me.  It was one of those moments in life you know instinctively you will never get back, so you enjoy it to the fullest while it is happening.  You also forget to take pictures.  When it was over, I couldn’t help myself, “That was SO cool!” I said loudly.  A sentiment that was quickly echoed by the 7 or 8 people standing around me.  Together we had witnessed something very special.
West Ship Island is a about a city block in width and contains a white sandy beach on both sides.  The water on the far side of the island is the Gulf of Mexico.  The island and it's partners provide a protective barrier for the town of Biloxi and Gulfport.  The entire string of islands separate and buffer the Biloxi shore from
Post Dolphin Sighting
the Gulf creating in between the peaceful waters of the Mississippi Sound.  West Ship Island is also part of a string of Islands owned by the National Park Service.  Together they are known as Gulf Islands National Seashore.  Two of the islands - East and West Ship Island - were once one large island until Hurricane Camille cut them in half in 1969.  Hurricane Katrina came along and made the cut more permanent.

The islands are also home to several cool critters.  Besides the dolphins, we spotted at least ten manta rays playing in the shallower waters by the beach on the Sound side.  There were also two star fish tossing about in the wake of the boat as it docked.  On
Time to Eat
the gulf side, Ross and I spotted three crabs doing their best to hide from us and the gulls flying around the beach from above.  Two of them played peek-a-boo with us for a while as they scuttled in an out of their sandy dens. 
The best critter moment, though, was when the boys were playing in the water.  Ross and I watched as two dolphins surfaced and played not 10 yards from where the boys were standing.  The boys had no idea.  And we weren’t quick enough to get a picture.  Another one of those memories to file away in the “once in a lifetime” category.
The crew of the boat were great and from all walks of life.  We got to know Minnesota Steve who was introduced to us at the ticket window.  I was standing with the boys getting our tickets when he walked into the booth and announced happily to the lady helping me, “Another day where I haven’t
Fort Massachusetts
had to use Algebra even once!”
“Shhhhhh,” I quickly rejoined.  “I’m sure you use Algebra every day, right?”
He looked up, noticing me and my companions for the first time.  “Riiiiiight,” he said, “I don’t know what I was thinking.  I use Algebra all the time.”  After that, Minnesota Steve was part of the family.
He pulled out his lunch cooler while we were eating and shared some of his chips with the boys.  His wife thinks they are too spicy, but he likes them.  And, he ended up leading our 1:00 p.m. tour of Fort Massachusetts – the ancient fort built by the French and used during the revolutionary and civil wars.  Steve was a retired postal worker who spent a little time in retirement working for the national park service before heading to Biloxi and Ship Island Excursions.  He gave a great tour.

The Ride Home
It was a beautiful, partly cloudy day on the island and we were very glad that we went on a Friday.  Rumor had it that they were expecting 1,000 people on the island that Saturday.  We toured with about 30.  Even with the spf 30 sunscreen – all of us had a sunburn on some parts of our bodies by the end of the day, so we rode back in the boat snack bar listening to the fans and the drone of the motor and lulling ourselves into a nice, easy sleep.
We were all silent driving the short way back to the condo.  We were all a little sun drowsy and by this time of our trip - had experienced plenty of togetherness.  I believe the saying is “fish and family start to stink after three days.”  We were going on nine. 

Turns out the best thing about our condo (at least that afternoon) was the three TVs.  When we
Sea Breeze Living Room
returned to our oasis to cool down after our excursion, the boys disappeared into their shared bedroom where they set up a picnic of snacks and drinks and messed with the WiFi and gladiator movies on AMC.  Ross headed to the master bedroom and the basketball game.  And that left the living room for me and a documentary on Judy Garland.  I’m pretty sure we all took a little nap.
Sea Breeze Condominiums is directly on the beach.  And when I say directly – I mean directly.  Every apartment has an unobstructed view of the Mississippi Sound.  When we surfaced again after going our separate ways – Ross and I, sans shoes and socks, went down to the second floor where the condo stairway connected directly to the white sand and surf.  We spent the next 45 minutes walking the beach, wading out to sandbars and watching the evening tide.  We offered it as a family excursion, but the boys weren’t interested.  They'd had enough of nature that afternoon.

We agreed – another good day to cap off a successful vacation.